In November 2013, after the job at XYZ in The Netherlands, I flew to Kiev, Ukraine where Mary picked me up. I thought I’d stay through the winter and learn some Ukrainian/Russian. I was (still am) hugely interested in exploring all of the countries which once belonged to the former Soviet Union. Speaking a little bit of Russian is the key to getting by.
On the Friday night I arrived in Kiev, I met up with Heath, an American. I’d met him cycling with Mary in 2012. We’d remained in contact. I took the metro to join up with Heath at the center of town, at the “Median” Nezalezhnosti Square.
When I got there, a small group of perhaps 50 people or so were lighting small paper lanterns, setting them off to fly over Kiev’s black night. Heath mentioned it was a small protest, people peacefully complaining about the then Ukrainian president, Yanukovych, who had decided NOT to sign an Association agreement with the EU.
We didn’t know it at the time, but this was the beginning of the Euromaidan “revolution”.
That night, I didn’t think anything particular of the protests. Back in Berlin, I was used to regularly seeing protesters in the streets. Germany is a country of regular protests, complaints and petitions. It’s how the Western European and North American political systems work. Government acts, people respond through elections and political protest. Political protest, as an expression of democracy, was basically non-existant in Ukraine in 2013.
Anyhow, a few days after arriving, I had found a temporary place to live. Two lovely Ukrainian law students, Mariana and Mykhailyna were my hosts. One week after moving in, they let me know that their law faculty was going to march through the streets of Kiev. Their university was pro Europe and they wanted to urge the President to reconsider his decision and sign the Association agreement. They said it was a lost cause, but they were passionate about at least speaking out.
I got out my camera and followed them though the streets. The video above is what I saw.
In 2010, in anticipation my big trip, I was teaching myself all I could about cycling. I decided to go on a bike trip outside of Germany. To test the waters and my gear. Being a big Eastern Europe fan, I found a cycle club in the Ukraine called Velotours.
I sent the organizer, Marija, an email. Could I come on one of their tours? YES.
My first trip with Velotours was to the Carpathian mountains, and it was a dreamy, slow train ride up the mountains. Cycling in the narrow, country roads was great too. I learned so much from Mary and her crew about bike gear and – in particular – how to pack your bike for transport.Cycling in the Ukraine is great but the country’s real gem is Mary.
Marija is an inspiration for all travelers: At 21 she’d already cycled through India, Iran and a few places in Europe. She has a magical ability to make everyone on her tour feel like they are getting special attention. I’ve never seen her angry or cross (except for once when the hotel she booked tried to cheat the group on price). When the ride only goes uphill, Mary finds something positive to say, to motivate those legs to turn a few more times.
Mary: You’re a superstar!
I went to the Ukraine twice again in 2012 to cycle with Mary and her crew. The most memorable being our trip was in the summer of 2012. We took the train down south to the Crimea. What luck! Just two years later, Russia would march in and annex the region.
Here’s the video, which also won 1st place in the 2014 American Cycling Association Video Competition.
Thank you Marija for all your advice and for becoming such a great friend!
OXLAEY